The Best Places to Backpack Along the Continental Divide
In 2022, I walked from Mexico to Canada along the continental divide trail. I saw some of the most magnificent mountain ranges in the country and today I want to share what I think are some of the best places to backpack along the continental divide.
For context, I’m not afraid of a little challenge and isolation so these aren’t necessarily the easiest places to visit, nor are they out and backs, so they’ll require some logistical planning (or modifications to my suggestions). But I think they’re places that will give you the most out of, say, a one week trip on the continental divide. As always, please follow leave no trace principles if you do choose to visit any of these places and be sure to follow the wilderness regulations of the area you’ll be visiting.
My opinion of the best places to backpack along the continental divide are not necessarily in order — I think they’re all great and are all incredible backpacking options. If you’re like most people who can’t swing a multi-month thru-hike, or simply don’t want to, these are some spots that I think are worth putting at the top of your list.
Elise at an overlook in Glacier National Park on the Continental Divide Trail.
Without further ado, my opinion of The Best Places to Backpack Along the Continental Divide:
Glacier National Park, MT
First up, is the northernmost section of the continental divide trail, Glacier National Park. The CDT through Glacier is just absolutely breathtaking. We saw so much wildlife and I have been itching to go back ever since we left. Also, since it’s a national park, there are great roads to various trailheads, and lots of different trail options — all of which I’m sure are equally incredible if you choose to wander away from the divide itself.
A moose in Glacier National Park on the Continental Divide Trail.
Highlights:
The entirety of the CDT through the park is gorgeous, but I definitely recommend prioritizing some of the passes if you can.
Swiftcurrent Pass, Piegan Pass, Triple Divide Pass, and Saint Mary Falls are a few backpacking spots along the continental divide trail that really stick out to me.
Access:
Because it’s a national park, you’ll need a pass to enter and permits for campgrounds.However, the roads to trailheads are well maintained, so I feel like access is relatively easy. If you can be flexible on your itinerary, it might be worth trying to car camp in the park, or stay somewhere close by and get walk-up permits a few days before your backpacking trip.
There is also an amtrak that goes to East Glacier, which is a pretty neat form of transportation that you could use if coming from a major city.
Things to Note:
Like I said, you will need backcountry camping permits, so keep that in mind if you are planning a trip to Glacier National Park.
Northern Montana is grizzly territory so you should carry bear spray, and you’ll need a rope for hanging your food at your backcountry sites (but there are bear poles at each site which makes hanging your food pretty convenient).
Wind River Range, WY
Next up on my list of the best places to backpack along the continental divide is the Wind River Range in Wyoming. I went to the winds for the first time in 2020 and was absolutely BLOWN AWAY (pun intended). This range has held a very special place in my heart ever since, and I’m always planning and scheming reasons to go back (WRHR ‘24 anyone?).
A camp spot on the CDT in the Wind River Range.
Highlights:
The Cirque of the Towers alternate is absolutely worth doing. It’s one of the most stunning places I’ve ever been.
If you’re down for a little spice and challenge, the Knapscak Col alternate is also totally worth doing. It will take some time, so keep that in mind, but getting to see Titcomb Basin and the views on the other side of the Col are totally worth it.
Access:
The Winds are notoriously remote. There aren’t many trailheads, especially along the CDT, and the ones that are there are only accessible by long dirt roads, although they are popular on weekends.
If you need to resupply along the CDT, it’s 10 miles off the CDT to get to a trailhead in the middle of the range. We opted instead for 9 straight days in the backcountry which made for a challenging food carry.
When we hiked in 2020 we went from Big Sandy Trailhead to Green River Lakes which is shorter and more approachable, but hard to do on a thru-hike due to the remote nature of the trailheads (hitchin can be a challenge).
Try a shuttle service to help you move your car from one trailhead to the other if you’re driving for a section hike.
Elise on the CDT in the Wind River Range.
Things to Note:
Again, the winds are remote, so you’ll want to be on top of your logistical planning.
They can have gnarly storms, so make sure you are aware of all the precautions you need to take for that.
Certain areas are very popular and you likely will see rangers, so make sure you are camping legally.
It is again grizzly territory, so make sure you have bear spray and proper food storage.
Gila National Forest, NM
The Gila, which is actually an alternate on the CDT and not the official route — was a place I’d only heard about in the context of the CDT. Everyone seemed to say it was the highlight of New Mexico, and I have to agree. Following the Gila River through the Gila National Forest was a true backcountry treat and unlike any place I’d ever been before.
Elise with the Gila National Forest sign on the CDT alternate.
Highlights:
The section between Doc Campbell’s and/ or the Gila Cliff Dwellings (which are definitely worth a visit) and the north end of the alternate was my favorite. Although the whole section is worth a visit if you can swing it.
Visit the Gila Cliff Dwellings, there’s so much history here and it’s such a cool thing to see.
There are several hot springs along the route which is always a treat.
Elise at the Gila Cliff Dwellings.
Access:
Starting from the Gila Cliff Dwellings seems reasonable with a car, but it will certainly take some research to figure out where to finish in the most efficient logistical way.
Things to Note:
The Gila River section of the CDT is very rugged and remote. Once you’re in the canyon, I don’t think bailing would be particularly easy. The trail is also very hard to follow and at times completely disappears.
You will be crossing the river A LOT and get very wet feet. My legs even started to crack open from going in and out of the water so much.
You’ll want to pay attention to water levels, 2022 southbounders were forced to take the high route due to flooding.
The Weminuche Wilderness, CO
The Weminuche Wilderness is part of the San Juan National Forest and is the largest wilderness area in Colorado. You’ll be paying for all the beauty you get to witness in breath as most of the trail here averages above 10,000 feet.
Camping above tree line on the Continental Divide.
Highlights:
We loved the trail towns on either end of this section, Pagosa Springs and Lake City. But the wilderness area in between would make me visit even the worst town.
The Kinfe’s Edge and The Window are both in this section as well as countless other gorgeous mountain passes and valleys.
There’s a 35 mile stretch above tree line, the headwaters of the Rio Grande, the Colorado Trail high point, old mining ruins and the most marmots I’ve ever seen in one week.
The Window on the Continental Divide.
Access:
Because the Weminuche is so large it can be hard to access by road depending how deep in you go. Pagosa Springs and Lake City are the two trail towns we used to access the Wilderness, but it’s also near Durango and Silverton. If you go all the way from Pagosa and Lake City expect to be in it for the LONG Haul. It took us 8 days while in thru-hiking shape.
I’d recommend finding a loop or finding a reliable way to get into Silverton.
Hiking above tree line in the Weminuche Wilderness.
Things to Note:
Like I mentioned, there are LONG stretches above tree line, you’ll want good weather or knowledge of bailouts to get lower. You’ll also definitely want to be acclimated and in good shape, although that’s probably true for all of these sections.
Collegiate Peaks Wilderness, CO
Finally, another beautiful section in my home state, the Collegiate Peaks Wilderness in Colorado. It’s also an area I frequented quite a bit when I lived in Denver, so it’s a little bit more accessible and felt very nostalgic for me when going through on the CDT. The CDTC has a great resource for hiking this section which I’ll link here.
Going over Hancock Pass on the Continental Divide Trail at sunset.
Highlights:
I really loved Hancock Pass and Hancock Lake. One of the best campsites we had on trail.
Hope Pass was a fun challenge and Twin Lakes is somewhere I’ve camped so many times it was really fun to revisit in a thru-hiking context.
The section of trail right after you leave Monarch Pass going north is also incredibly gorgeous.
There’s also tons of 14ers in this area if bagging peaks is something you are into.
Camping in the Collegiate Peaks Wilderness on the Continental Divide Trail.
Access:
Collegiate Peaks is not TOO far from Denver if you need to fly to get there and there are quite a few different trailheads to access it.If you do the Collegiate Loop, you could leave a car and hike the whole thing in about two weeks.
It might get a little more logistically complicated if you want to do a point to point, but still not impossible.
There’s also tons of great Colorado mountain towns surrounding this wilderness area, and I think it would make a great backpacking vacation.
Things to Note:
Again, you’ll definitely want to acclimate for a trip to the Collegiate Peaks and be in good shape. There’s lots of climbs and lots of time above or near 10,000 feet.
Elise on the Gila River alternate of the Continental Divide Trail.
And there you have it, my favorite backpacking spots on the continental divide. If you’re interested in doing some sections of the CDT, these are the ones I would personally recommend starting with. There are many great sections that I didn’t name here as well, so don’t let it not being included in this list stop you.