10 Tips for CDT Thru-Hiking Hopefuls: What I Learned On My Walk Across the Country

10 things I learned while walking across the country, specifically on the Continental Divide Trail. Consider this a list of tips for Continental Divide Trail Thru-Hiking Hopefuls or an opportunity to commiserate for CDT alumni.

While the CDT was my second time walking across the country, I found it provided a host of unique lessons to be learned. I tend to seek out long periods of time in the backcountry to challenge myself in hopes that I’ll come out more capable and confident, and the CDT definitely did not disappoint in that regard. So, without further ado, here are 10 things I learned while thru-hiking the CDT.

Josh walking through the New Mexico desert on the Continental Divide Trail.

1. Not to underestimate the New Mexico Heat.

The first important lesson I learned while hiking the CDT, and a word of caution for CDT hopefuls, is not to underestimate the New Mexico heat.

Even in April, the boot heel was delivering some TOASTY temps. There’s really not much shade at all. It’s true, low desert for the first section of the CDT and you better be prepared for those searing afternoons. My sun umbrella was a lifesaver. Looking back, I definitely should have taken more siestas and done more night hiking. Siestas were a challenge though, because it was often many miles between shady spots, and laying in the hot desert sun didn’t really feel like it was helping my case any.

2. Pants might be a good idea next time.

The next lesson the CDT so wisely bestowed upon me, is that it might be worth trying to find hiking pants that I actually like.

I really like hiking in shorts, they’re what I’ve always worn — but I think if I were going to do it over again I might consider some lightweight hiking pants. First, for sun protection — even with using sunscreen my legs got pretty roasty toasted being at such high elevations all summer. Second, there’s a decent amount of overgrowth on sections of the CDT, even in national parks like Glacier, and it would be nice to have a barrier between the plants and my legs. I definitely left the CDT with several new scars and would recommend a nice pair of hiking pants to anyone hoping to hike the CDT.

3. Monsoon season isn’t just in Colorado.

Another tip I have for CDT thru-hikers, is to not forget about the dangers of monsoon season when you leave Colorado. I think monsoon season gets talked about in Colorado the most because of the danger of being above tree line in the afternoon, but we definitely encountered a LOT of storms in Montana as well. The hail got pretty gnarly, and there was also plenty of lightning and wind to keep us on our toes. We had to take alternates a few times to avoid long afternoons on the divide with no protection from mother nature.

A large piece of hail in Elise’s hand from a storm in Montana on the Continental Divide Trail.

4. The tread is rough — comfy shoes are a must.

Nothing really helps you internalize “the PCT is graded for horses” like hiking the CDT. What I mean by that is if the PCT is your first thru-hike, like it was mine, it’s very easy to take for granted just how nice that tread is. The CDT showed me how rough hiking tread can be, and made me really rethink my footwear. After 5 months, I felt like I needed something with a lot more cushion than what I started the CDT in. So my recommendation to CDT thru-hikers? Test out your shoes on some rocky terrain and see how those bags of bones we call feet feel after a 20 mile day.

5. Most of the bad road walking is in New Mexico.

Elise, Josh, and Stallion on a road walk heading toward Reserve, New Mexico on the Continental Divide Trail. Photo Credit: Tommy Corey

Chances are if you’ve been thinking about thru-hiking the CDT, you’ve heard about the infamous road walks. The secret to why these are so terrible, in my opinion, is that they are concentrated mostly in New Mexico. What’s so bad about New Mexico road walks? I think mostly just the fact that they are so plentiful and so scorchingly hot. When you come out to hike a trail, you usually aren’t looking to spend much time on roads. Something I didn’t expect is that the paved roads are actually pretty few and far between. The road walking people so often lament is mostly on remote dirt roads. Yes, they’re boring, but they aren’t AS hard on your feet as the paved ones.

Although, the packed gravel is certainly harder on your body than the trail.

The second thing I was pleasantly surprised by with CDT road walks, is that by the time we got to Idaho/Montana, we were kind of excited for them. Compared to the typical tread of the CDT, it meant we could knock out some quick miles, and we started to actually look forward to a road walk to break up the day.

Elise on a road walk in New Mexico on the Continental Divide Trail.

6. Cow water isn’t as bad as it’s made out to be.

Josh getting water from a cow tank in New Mexico on the Continental Divide Trail.

Another thing you’ve likely seen and heard about if you’re thinking about a CDT thru-hike is the infamous, disgusting cow water. While there are certainly a few, VERY questionable sources, the cow water isn’t as bad as it’s cracked up to be. A lot of the algae filled tanks do look really gross, but once you get your bottle in there, it’s not like it’s coming out full of algae. The ones you really need to watch out for are the ponds, because they are certainly filled with cow poop.

However, if you’re strategic about it, you can often avoid the worst sources, and still not carry more than 5 liters of water at a time. 5 liters was the most I ever carried on the CDT and while that’s definitely more than I’d like, it’s not TERRIBLE.

7. Idaho is randomly very dry.

On that note, something that really surprised me when I got there was how dry Idaho is along the CDT. You’ll likely find that a lot of the CDT is drier than you expect, but it makes sense when you think about it. You are loosely following the continental divide, which means the water flows away and to lower elevations, so there’s not much water on the true divide. So CDT thru-hikers need to get very used to checking the water situation for the day ahead.

Idaho brought this to a whole new level. I think we were mostly on the true divide, which explains it, but there were some very long water carries that snuck up on me after being in the relatively wet states of Colorado and Wyoming.

Elise at the Idaho border on the Continental Divide Trail

8. Always know your alternates!

One of my favorite tips for CDT thru-hikers is to always be aware of your alternates. Alternates are one of my favorite parts of the CDT. It’s truly a DIY kind of trail which I think adds a lot of adventure to the experience. Knowing all the alternate options available to you, and not being afraid to take them, can really enrich your thru-hike. Also nothing can turn a hard day around like taking an impromptu shortcut.

9. Journaling every day is hard but invaluable.

The CDT was the first time I actually stuck to a daily journal and I am SO glad that I did. Even if I was too tired to write more than a few bullets at the end of the day, those bullets were enough to jog my memory about things and feelings I might have otherwise forgotten. It kept me grounded throughout the trail and I’m SO glad I have those entries now.

10. I can do HARD sh*t.

I think one of my most important personal takeaways from the CDT was that I can, indeed, do really hard sh*t. Going into the CDT, I really wanted to prove to myself that I could do a thru-hike of that caliber, and I believe I came away successful and more confident in my abilities. If you’re looking for a real challenge and to test the limits of your abilities, and mental and physical endurance, I think the CDT is a great way to do that.

That is certainly not ALL of the things I learned on the CDT, but it encompasses some of the highlights. One of my favorite parts of thru-hiking is learning new things about the beauty of the backcountry and myself. If you’re thinking about a CDT thru-hike, I hope this shed some light on some of the often discussed topics when it comes to the trail.